Pool opening

With the unseasonably warm weather this week, perhaps it time to start thinking about routine Spring maintenance. It never hurts to start early so those inevitable surprises cannot delay planned pool opening.

My initial checks include:

  • inspect pool tiles, surroundings and gutters for signs of ice or freeze damage;
  • check pump room for pipe leaks or leaky valves;
  • open sand filters and check sand quality and level;
  • open DE filters and check integrity of the grids;
  • open cartridge filters and check cartridges for damage or wear;
  • check/ run pool pump to ensure well-lubricated bearings and silent operation;
  • check transformers and power supplies for water damage or corroded terminals;
  • inspect fuse box and ensure operability of trip switches and earth leakage units;
  • make preliminary inspection of pool lights and determine lamps that need replacing;
  • ensure the pool water is still in pristine condition with no trace of algae.

Any major problems discovered now can be comfortably dealt with well in advance of the swimming season, when pool service is both hard to get and rushed.

157 thoughts on “Pool opening”

  2. I just been thinking the same. With a day or two of warm weather I want to start getting my pool ready for the new swimming season.

    Thanks for the checklist there.

  5. Here is step by step instructions on how to open an inground pool

    1. Remove all water, leaves and debris from the top of the cover. To remove the water you can use a submersible cover pool or basement sump pump.

    2. Remove the cover from the pool. Try to carefully remove the cover without getting any extra debris that remains on the top of the cover into the pool or you will have to clean that out later. If some dirty water does get in, it’s not a problem. Using chemicals later will sanitize your pool

    3. Lay the cover out on your lawn or nearby area and use water, carwash soap and a brush and wash down your cover. By doing this you will ensure a longer life for your pool cover which can be a hefty investment

    4. If you are using water tubes to secure your pool cover, make sure you empty those and dry them out before storage.

    5. Now go around your pool and make sure all plugs are removed from any and all openings in your pool

    6. Re-install all of your deck equipment including your ladders, diving board, rails, etc. And make sure you lubricate all bolts to prevent from rusting throughout the summer months.

    7. Re-install all your skimmer baskets and eye-ball fittings

    8. Hook up your pump and filter and any additional equipment such as a booster pump or a chlorine dispenser and make sure all the plugs are securely in place

    9. Fill up your pool if you pool has been drain or has lost any water over the winter.

    10. Turn on the power to your pool. At this point make sure the system starts up. Check for any leaks or drips, make sure the ground wires are properly connected to the pump and make sure you pump is prime.

    11. Backwash your filter. After backwashing if you have a DE filter, add more fresh DE according to the manufacturers instructions.

    12. Now it’s time to add the startup chemicals. I would recommend to just simply shock your pool using 2 lbs of shock for every 10,000 gallons of pool water or 5 gallons of liquid shock per 20,000 gallons of pool water

    13. Take a sample of your pool water to your nearest pool dealer and ask for a water test to get your pool water completely balanced.

    14. Let your pool run at least 24 hours and vacuum out any debris. Retest the water and if everything checks out, go swimming!

  6. In addition to Swim University recommenations, if you own a salt water pool chlorinator be sure to check the salt level in the pool. As a general rule of thumb, if the pool water tastes salty, then you probably do not need to add any pool salt. Also be sure to check the cell for health and cleanliness. Limescale buid-up is a common problem and a mild acetic acid (eg. vinegar will do) bath is probably required prior to opening. Also, if you operate a heat pump on your pool, be sure to check refrigerant level with a certified air conditioning tech prior to opening. Happy swimming!

  7. In response to Kathy, strips work really well as they break down the composition of the water into easy color coded results. “5-way” test strips are a good choice as opposed to “3-way” test strips, simply because they test for more compositions.

  9. Aloha, I’m a new owner of a pool in Hawaii and wanted to know how long should I run the pump/day? With soaring electrical cost, especially in Hawaii, I want to operate the pump only as long as it typically takes to keep it clean.

    Second question; does running the pump have any affect on the chemicals required, that is, if I run it more, does it require less chemicals to control alge or if I run it less, will I need to add more chemicals to the control alge and the other nasty critters found in one’s pool.

    Many thanks,

    Eric

  10. Both Spring Start up lists above are well-done. Regarding Step #3 of Swim University’s list, it might be better to skip using car wash soap and purchase a cleaner that is specifically designed for cleaning pool covers. These cleaners provide the following benefits: 1- any chemical residue left on the cover will not throw off pool water’s chemical balance when the cover is re-installed the following winter. 2- specialty cleaners have a conditioner in them which helps to preserve the vinyl (if your cover is made of vinyl). 3- Most of these cleaners also include a deodorizer that helps keep the cover smelling fresher, longer.

    When it comes time to store your winter cover, many people find that storing them in a large clean plastic trash can works best. In fact, one of the best ways to store a cover is to fill the can with water AFTER the cover is placed within it. Filling the can with water doesn’t hurt the cover at all, and the water keeps rodents from wanting to build their nests in the can/cover. You can pour the last of your cover cleaner chemical into the can,too, as a deordorizer and conditioner.

    Regarding Test Strips: They have become much more reliable in recent years. Make sure that they are stored out of the sun and kept completely dry. Contact with UV rays and/or humidity may distort the test result. Replace Test strips every 3 months if you haven’t already used them up.

    To Eric in HI: Typically, a properly sized pump will “turn your pool over” one time every 8 hours. For instance, if your pool contains 18,000 gals, your pump should move at least 18,000 gals in 8 hours. It’s a good idea to run your pump daily for as many hours as it takes to turn your water over at least one time. The older your pump, the less water it will move regardless of what the manual says. The best way to enjoy your pool is to be pro-active and use prevention. Don’t skimp on pump time, and never skimp on chemicals. Where chemicals are concerned, it’s best to think about a 3-Step Proram: 1- Always keep your chlorine level at 1.5ppm or better (higher than 3ppm is excessive and doesn’t provide much benefit) for a residential pool. 2- Never skimp on a good quality algaecide, even when the water looks great and you think it won’t hurt to skip a week’s dosage and save a few pennies. 3- Make a plan to “Shock” (or superchlorinate) your pool once ever week or two. This last step is like sending in reinforcements just when Steps 1 and 2 begin to weary against the attacks of weather, swimmer wastes, and other types of contaminations all week long.

  11. About the nasty stains that are left behind when you remove your safety cover: dont spend too much time trying to scrub them off. The UV light from our sun get rid of them.

    And how come sun tan lotion isnt on the list. 🙂

  12. How can I get rid of the white film on my vinyl pool. We had to drain it this year to change out some of the legs, and I was surprised at the white film on the inside.

    Thanks

  13. good information. I recently moved into a house; the pool had not been opened in 2 years. It was lime green. Now the pump isn’t working. It worked for a while, then just gave out. Any ideas?

  14. This is our first year with a Salt water pool. What start up chemicals are required?

  17. To Sandy Benham: You should check out YouTube. I have seen a number of videos that have people showing step by step what chemicals are needed for a salt water pool

  18. Great list. I wish that I had found it in time to direct our clients to it.

    In addition, I would also suggest an inspection of the interior pool surface to ensure that no loose or chipped paint/coasings will clog the filter too.

    Enjoy the rest of the season.

  19. Please help me, I dont want my filters on 12 hours a day, Is there any way I can beat SUN TAN Loation/OIL, MY PH AND Chlorine are perfect, But have cloudy water in deep end of pool all the time, can only assume it Sun Tan Cream

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